A Local's Four Day Itinerary of the Canadian Rockies
Banff & Canmore

I grew up spending my weekends in the mountains and have lived in Canmore for seven years. In all that time I haven’t even scratched the surface of what the Canadian Rockies have to offer. The National Parks are full of so much more than the iconic lakes, numerous waterfalls, jaw-dropping vistas, yet most visitors have only a handful of days to visit. This is a guide I have written for friends visiting Banff for the first time in summer. It is written with Canmore as their base, for those with a bit of a more ventureful spirit who want to make the most of their time, are down for early mornings and all-day road trips, but also want to sit back for a few hours and take it all in. These four days could more comfortably be spread over a week for anyone intimated by the long days.

Accompanying this post are a handful of personal images. Taken from my great grandfather’s trip in 1953, my grandfather’s travels in 1981 and 1986, my father and my own meanderings.

Day 1 | The Banff Townsite

• Arrive in Canmore, check in and get settled. Feeling a bit peckish? Visit Le Fournil on Bow Valley Trail, a French bakery with the tastiest of baguette sandwiches and quiches.
• Drive west on the Trans Canada Highway, stop at the gate to pick up your pass, or if you pre-ordered it put it on your rearview mirror and continue into the park using the two right lanes.  Marvel at Cascade Mountain straight ahead as it appears over that first crest of the hill and drive towards its base. Fifteen minutes later you will arrive at the first exit to enter the Banff townsite, but rather than take a left, head right. You’ll find yourself on the Minnewanka Loop, a perfect introduction to your time in the mountains. I tend to go counter-clockwise, taking a right at where the road splits, passing through meadows where you may spot the local elk herd, stop at Two Jack Lake, see some sheep at the next corner (give them their space though and be mindful of vehicles behind you! You don’t want to be the cause of an animal jam) and the jewel of the loop, Lake Minnewanka.  As you head back into town stop at the lower Bankhead parking lot, take the stairs down towards the remnants of a mining town that once was.
• Continue into the Banff townsite. Swing up to Surprise Corner on Buffalo Street for a magnificent view of the Fairmont Banff Springs before crossing the Bow River, with the historic National Park building ahead of you. Take a left and visit Bow Falls and the Banff Springs itself with its castle architecture, the plethora of ghost stories, and my favourite, a little museum of history on the second floor above the check-in desk (across from 1888 Chophouse).
• Parking during the summer months is not for the light-hearted but made a touch easier by Banff Parking, a website that gives you real-time information of where to find a spot. Now is your time to go full tourist mode. Meander Main Street, poke your head into the numerous souvenir shops, grab a Beavertail, see all the animals (they be stuffed though) at the Banff Park Museum. Embrace your inner tourist, but do remember to look when crossing the streets.
• Enjoy that super awesome parking spot you found (although, if you are in a two-hour lot consider moving your vehicle, they do check regularly) and get dinner. Our particular favourites are the Bear Street Tavern, with pizza that will surely not leave you disappointed (mmm The Wheeler Hut and the Tatanka pizzas), and Park Distillery, which is best described as fancified camp food.
• Return to Canmore and call it a night.

Day 2 |  The Icefields Parkway

This itinerary has two particularly full days of driving and this is one of them. But considering the majority of your time will be spent on the famous Icefield’s Parkway, well, I can almost guarantee you won’t be disappointed.

• Depart Canmore at the crack of dawn (yes, this means around 5/6AM in summer). Bonus points if you preplanned and bought some day-old bagels from the Rocky Mountain Bagel Co (we frequent the Bow Valley Trail location as it tends to be a touch less busy) the day before to gnaw on as you drive.
• Just past Lake Louise (I know, you want to go straight there, but trust me and skip it for today) take a right on the 93N. If you pass a sign welcoming you to British Columbia you have gone too far, turn around and try again.
• The next two hours is, in short, a self-guided tour through a real-life painting. On either side of you are majestic peaks with glaciers and blue lakes emerging from the forests as you go. Watch the light bounces off the peaks to your left and filters through the trees. But don’t forget to watch the road, you may pass elk, sheep, bears and wolves.
• There are numerous stops to make along the Icefields Parkway including Bow Lake (Suggestion: the viewpoint from the public lot near Num-Ti-Jah Lodge is even more glorious than the road pullout, although you are likely to see medium dog size ravens at the road one), Peyto Lake (It’s easy to miss, it is the left turn where it says Bow Summit), Waterfowl Lakes and Mistaya Canyon.
• Finally, arrive at the Athabasca Glacier, remember to bring some layers for this as even in summer the wind screaming off the glacier can be stabby amounts of cold. I’d highly recommend pre-booking a spot with Athabasca Glacier Icewalks, it’s a touch more expensive than the bus but a much more informative experience (plus, less pollution!)
• The Jasper townsite is now 1.5h one way from where you are now. I would personally recommend adding this on if you have an extra day and can camp or book a hotel there for the night as you can’t do it justice in a short afternoon. Nearby is also the Glacier Skywalk and Tangle Creek Falls – I think time and money is better spent elsewhere but do what suits your travel tastes.
• If you are interested in hiking checkout Parker Ridge. A relatively short jaunt (although take it slowly you are at a much higher elevation and your body may be sufficiently confused). It takes 2-3 hours return and has an elevation gain of 250m/820 feet. Carry bear spray and brush up on your safe hiking skills! My friends and I definitely heard a warning ‘woof’ from a bear on this a few years ago.
• Head on back to Canmore with your driven and hiked out bodies. Our favourite dinner digs in Canmore are Where the Buffalo Roam (hands down your best choice for cocktails and your inner kid will love the tater tots), Tapas, Rocky Mountain Flatbread Company, or if you are feeling more fancy, The Trough.

Day 3 | The More Localish

Take things a bit easier today.

• Sleep in, I mean, relatively, and head out around 7:30/8AM to Johnston Canyon – take the Bow Valley Parkway for the possibility of spotting some wildlife. It’s an easy walk (hike? I mean it is slightly inclined) to the Lower Falls and the Upper Falls. If you are feeling spry continue up towards the Ink Pots.
• Head back into the Banff Townsite and grab some lunch. Other than my earlier recommendations we like Nourish Bistro, a vegetarian restaurant and oh those nachos are legendary, Ramen Arashi, hidden on the second floor of a mall (now with a location in Canmore), and Block Kitchen + Bar.
• One of our favourite weekday activities is to take Hobbit the dog canoeing on Vermilion Lakes at The Banff Canoe Club. It’s a great way to excuse the copious amounts of food you have consumed and a great relationship builder (alright, maybe a bit frustrating if it is your first time in the canoe but no one except the elk are judging you zig-zagging your way down the creek). If you are lucky you may spot a busy beaver at the turnoff from the creek to the lake as well.
• This part I will leave up to you. Other popular activities in Banff including the gondola up Sulphur Mountain, the Banff Hot Springs, and afternoon tea at the Fairmont. All of those come at a typical tourist town price tag. Alternatively, meander the flat Fenland Trail loop you canoed by, people watch in the park, find some live music either at a restaurant or see what activities are on at the Banff Centre.
• Return to Canmore and grab a flight of beers from the Canmore Brewing Company (the Ten Peaks Pale Ale is our jam), then walk down Main Street and peek your head into the Rocky Mountain Soap Company (the sugar scrub is the best after a long day of hiking), Project A, a store with delightfully Canadian handmade objects, and Lifeways Gallery. We would probably grab a pizza on a day like this but you can always try another restaurant listed above!
• Turn in early for the sake of seeing Moraine Lake

Day 4 | The Wait, Another Lake? Day

Okay, I pretty much tell people to forget seeing Moraine Lake and Lake Louise unless they are going for sunrise. They close the road anywhere from 7-8AM (roughly) and require everyone to take a shuttle after that which takes a copious amount of time out of your day. Sacrifice some sleep to make the most of your day.

• Wake up stupidly early and plan to be at the Moraine Lake for sunrise. Do the short jaunt up the rockpile for the best views (there is a path that goes behind it then up, don’t try to scale the side especially on a wet day).
• Head up the road to Lake Louise (where you should be able to find parking until 8AM-ish). Hike to Lake Agnes or the do the Plain of Six Glaciers (note, both have historic tea houses, both require Canadian cash). Or, if you are feeling particularly energetic do both. Most of the photos from this post on how to hike with your dog in Banff are from the Plain of Six Glaciers
• You definitely haven’t seen enough lakes at this point so head into British Columbia to Emerald Lake, a turn off to your right just past the town of Field. Don’t forget to stop at the Natural Bridge on the Emerald Lake Road. Oh, and if you are particularly set on seeing more water turn before the town of Field to see Takakkaw Falls (the 45th tallest waterfall in eastern BC.. wooo.. but seriously it is pretty impressive), the road is a bit winding so I wouldn’t recommend this in an RV.
• Haven’t seen enough falls? Well, time to drive a bit farther into BC and do the very flat hike into Wapta Falls
• On your way back to Canmore head down the 93S and see Marble Canyon in Kootenay National Park (the much forgotten but equally beautiful national park). Grab a late lunch or early dinner at the historic Storm Mountain Lodge.

Congratulations. You did it. You saw the iconic sites of Banff (and a touch of Yoho, Jasper, and Kootenay).

Depending on your plans, fit in an early morning hike, or grab some brunch or breakfast to go. If your travels take you towards Calgary stop at the Yamnuska Wolfdog Sanctuary.

Day Specific Things

Wednesday | Banff Farmer’s Market . May 21 to October 3, 2018 . 10AM to 3PM

Thursday | Canmore Farmer’s Market . May 22 to October 4, 2018 . 10AM to 6PM

Friday | Cupcake Friday at Communitea Cafe in Canmore

Sunday | Brunch at Where the Buffalo Roam . It’s pretty much tradition in this household